Gugu is a place between worlds. Filipino street fare makes its way to the Japanese izakaya menu. Photo by Michael Tulipan.

Manila magic: A night at Gugu Room

Words by Apa Agbayani

Some nights, the Lower East Side feels like home. Gugu Room is a Filipino-Japanese izakaya that’s found a fascinating space to play between the two worlds. Whether you’re in for an intimate date over small plates or animated conversation over a banana leaf boodle fight, the place to be is in the romantic glow of Gugu’s lights.

We had a mouthwatering selection for dinner and cocktails for the night we visited, starting with the refreshing Kani Salad, served with a sesame sambal aioli that was aromatic with just enough kick. The aioli was a recurring theme for the night, coming again in the togarashi-peppered Rock Shrimp Tempura. The plump, fresh shrimp made the dish irresistible. The Roboto Kushiyaki sample platter didn’t disappoint either, with a tangy isaw skewer and a juicy liempo skewer that called back to eateries back home.

A refreshing Kani Salad with sesame sambal aioli. Photo by Michael Tulipan.

The irresistible, peppery Rock Shrimp Tempura. Photo by Michael Tulipan.

The delicious kushiyaki sampler. Photo by Michael Tulipan.

On to the mains! The Gugu Express reinvents a classic spicy coconut stew from Bicolandia with bagnet, eggplant and a blistered shishito pepper adding a roasty dimension to the flavor. Every spoonful married perfectly with Gugu’s signature garlic rice. The pièce de résistance of the meal was the Beef Bone Marrow Salpicao. Every bite of steak melted in your mouth with a medley of oyster and shiitake mushrooms. The bone marrow itself was an explosion of flavor I’ll be thinking about for a long time.

A veritable kamayan feast on Gugu’s menu. Photo by Michael Tulipan

This experience wouldn’t be complete without Gugu’s expertly crafted cocktails. The Manila Mule had the kick of a spiked salabat with its ginger lime juice and ginger beer. The Gugu Midori Sour made clever use of calamansi to give the drink its sweet and sour flair. The Spicy Bingo was a wildcard: spirit-forward and aromatic with that perfect anghang, while the Ube Baby was an inventive take on the purple yam, rounding out its flavors with coffee liqueur.

The Gugu Midori Sour packs a punch. Photo by KK Chote.

Satiated and more than a little tipsy after dinner, we felt the Manila magic come to life in our hearts and in our bellies. It was a night we won’t forget.

Gugu Room is located at 143 Orchard St., New York NY 10002. Make your reservation here.